Thursday, January 31, 2013

Europe Trip - January 2013


A few observations made during my January 2013 trip to Warsaw, Paris, and Amsterdam.

Timing

Let me start with the timing. Winter is not the best time of the year to visit cities of Europe. The only good thing about it is that there are fewer tourists. The bad things are: days are short, cold, and often overcast. If there is snow and the city must work, then usually sand and salt are applied to streets and sidewalks. If the temperature fluctuates between above freezing (zero degrees Celsius) and below freezing, as it often does in Warsaw, the result is a mess. A mixture of melted snow, salt and sand gets on your boots, on cars, buses, sidewalks, building facades, inside buses and trams... look at these pictures from Warsaw:

Melted snow, sand, and salt on sidewalks and streets.

Melted snow, sand, and salt inside a tram.

A view through a dirty bus window.
Cities that are below zero or above zero for most of winter don't have that problem. 
Unfortunately, living in Australia and travelling with school-age children forces me to go on longer trips during Australian summer breaks, that is, in December and January.



Smoke Stacks

I am not sure about Paris and Amsterdam, but in Warsaw central heating in winter is often achieved by heating water in a coal power plant and then distributing that hot water to buildings and flats.

Amsterdam
Paris


Street Art

The more the better. 
Amsterdam
Paris - Montmartre
Warsaw - Tamka
This one is big - can you find windows?
Warsaw - Praga


Blocks of Flats

Despite the obvious differences, there are many similarities in European cities, customs, and even words in languages from different families: Polish is Slavic, French is Romance, and Dutch is Germanic. 

Pedestrian traffic lights, for example, work in a very similar way in Warsaw and Paris: they are quiet (no sound for green), have fixed cycles (no button to push), and similar green and red stick figures. 

Blocks of flats seem to be a common heritage as well. I saw those in Canada too. Unlike in the U.S., in Europe these are not necessarily inferior to other kinds of dwellings.
Paris
Warsaw

Amsterdam


Science Centres

Paris - La Cité des enfants.
A rare moment when there is no out of control school group around.
Warsaw - Kopernik - a very new and very clever science centre.
Possibly the best science centre I visited, and I visited quite a few.


The French Are Not Rude

I don't know who came up with that myth, but the French that we met in Paris during 7 days of travelling by metro and train, sightseeing, shopping in normal shops, and walking normal streets were always very polite. Much more polite than Polish or Dutch. Not that the Polish or Dutch were impolite. It is just that only in Paris I experienced people saying 'pardon' to get around me, 'bonjour' when entering a shop, 'au revoir' when leaving a shop, making room or vacating a seat on the metro when seeing an adult with a small child, and generally trying to help a lost tourist. Merci!


Paris - various

Snowing.
d'Orsay
Musée des Arts et Métiers - the first steam car by Cugnot
Two Concorde planes in the Air and Space Museum in Paris.
The Smithsonian in Washington D.C. does a much better job of showing aviation and space history.

Paris metro station - ceiling repairs on the cheap.
First and smallest of the three arches in Paris.
They are aligned, and in good weather maybe you can see all three.
Boulevard Diderot
Louvre - main entrance
Louvre - inside 
Eiffel Tower


Paris CDG

Inside Terminal 1 - palm trees covered by snow.
Shuttle train
Terminal 1 - the flying saucer



Paris - Montmartre

Painters' square
Basilica of the sacred heart
Tomek with a mime artist who happened to talk a lot... in Polish
A view.
Another view - can you see the Eiffel tower?



Salvador Dali Museum in Paris

There is a small Salvador Dali museum in Montmartre. It is unusual, because it focuses on Dali's sculptures, not paintings. Here are my favourites:
Alice in Wonderland
Winged snail


Paris - Versailles 

I like trains, so let me start with a train that took us to Versailles from Paris. By the way, the French version of the double decker carriage is much more comfortable than the Dutch one. In the Dutch version there are glass doors that separate compartments from the exits. The doors are narrow, and they don't open easily. When you add to this the need to use the stairs to go up or down, and narrow corridors, and lack of storage space, then you will understand that getting in and out with luggage is a major undertaking in the Dutch double-decker train. In the French one it's just the stairs that are an obstacle.
Double-decker train to Versailles
Versailles - Front.
The entrance to Versailles is a place of work for a group of young men, originally from Africa, selling little Eiffel towers. How do they know, just by looking at us, that we are Polish? :-) First words to me:  "Kolega, pięć za jeden" - "Mate, five (little Eiffel towers) for one (Euro)". A good deal by the way, a pity that we bought two for one earlier at a shop in Montmartre. This little guy uses them as rockets when playing. :-)
The view from the castle towards the gardens.
It reminds me of the Washington D.C. mall design.
Same architect or just a copy?
Versailles - Back

Versailles - inside. A portait of Luis the XIV.
There is something peculiar about this portrait. Can you see the chipped tile on the left? A few other tiles had cracks. The question is: was the floor in bad shape and the artist was true or did the artist want to send us a message, maybe that the king looked good, but the foundations of his rule were weak?

Way back - an English village replica in the Versailles gardens.


Warsaw - various

Nowy Świat
Old Town Square
Polish Military Museum - a Suchoj plane 
Polish Military Museum - T-34
Royal Castle by day
Royal Castle by night
University Library from aside
Royal Tract
Inside a new PESA tram
These trams show on a screen the time to travel to remaining stops.
This information is important if you use a 20, 40, or 60 minute ticket.
Same tram from outside
Old and new - Praga
A beautiful day on the outskirts of Warsaw
Skiing in Warsaw - Szczęśliwice.
Warsaw is generally flat and this hill is artificial. It used to be a rubbish tip.


Amsterdam - various 

I liked the scale of Amsterdam much better than that of Paris. Paris feels like it was designed for cars and big military parades. Paris feels heavy. Old buildings are usually 6 or 7 stories high. 
Amsterdam in comparison feels light. Most of the city centre is designed for trams and pedestrians. Old buildings are 4 or 5 stories high.

Leaning houses of Amsterdam.
Henri Polaklaan 
Rembrandt Square


Amsterdam Resistance Museum

This is a very interesting little museum worth a separate blog article. I will post just a few pictures here.
Nazi propaganda poster.

Nazi propaganda poster - recruiting to work in Germany
Dutch SS volunteers going to the eastern front.
Over 22 thousand Dutch joined the SS.  
A queue of Dutch citizens signing up to join a legal alternative
to the Dutch Nazi party.
Jewish survivors returning after liberation.
Notice the sign in the background:
"This is Holland. Remember, the Dutch are our allies."


Dutch Over-engineering

It may be just me, but I keep noticing Dutch engineers designing things that seem unnecessarily big or strong, or just made for fun. 
A ram-train

Nothing will stop this door opening mechanism. 

A handle bar not to mess with.
Extra wide metro carriages. At least a metre wider than the Paris version.
A building in a shape of a fast train.
A building that looks like a chocolate covered ice-cream bar?
A giant drawer chest on the right? I like them both.
A piece of beautiful engineering:
showing the mechanism of the escalator at a metro station.

Saturday, December 29, 2012

Bloodlands by Timothy Snyder


Bloodlands. Europe between Hitler and Stalin. Timothy Snyder. Published in 2010.

I have been trying to finish the review of this book for over two weeks now. It is hard for me, because it is personal. I am Polish. I grew up in a small town which, like most towns in Poland, had a significant Jewish population before the war. I knew nothing about it at the time. For me the 'ghetto' was only a geographical location in the centre of the town, where the farmer's market was. There were no orthodox Jews anywhere to be seen and I did not know anybody who was Jewish.

I also lived in the eastern part of Warsaw, called Praga, which was not razed to the ground after Warsaw Uprising of 1944, because it was already under Soviet control. In Praga, even now, almost 70 years after the war, you can find pre-war buildings ridden with bullet holes from 1939 or 1944. In all of Warsaw, if you look, you will find plaques and monuments commemorating places where people had been executed or where battles had been fought. Every year on August 1st, the city stops for a minute to commemorate Warsaw Uprising of 1944. The 1943 Warsaw Ghetto Uprising is remembered as well and Generalplan Ost is part of the national psyche. The last war is hard to forget if you live in Poland.

This book, however, is not really about the war. This book is about 14 million murders committed before and during the war, by the regimes of Adolf Hitler and Josef Stalin, on the lands that they both controlled. Timothy Snyder wants us to think about the victims as 14 million "times one" so we don't forget that they were individuals, with names and stories to tell.

Bloodlands provides context and factual corrections to the national stories, which tend to be one-sided, skewed, or exaggerated. Hundreds of millions of children were "educated" about these events to fit the communist or national version of history.
"What begins as competitive martyrology can end with martyrological imperialism. The wars for Yugoslavia of the 1990s began, in part, because Serbs believed that far larger numbers of their fellows had been killed in the Second World War than was the case. When history is removed, numbers go upward and memories go inward, to all of our peril."
This book uses statistics extensively. For example, to illustrate the point that generalisations are often wrong, and context and individual circumstances are important:
"A non-Jewish Pole in Warsaw, alive in 1933 had about the same chances of living until 1945 as a Jew in Germany alive in 1933."
It is a balanced book, and it doesn't try to agitate one group against another. It tries to dispel some myths using hard historical facts. The above statement, for example, is quickly followed by:
"[...] a Jew in Poland was about fifteen times more likely to be deliberately killed during the war than a non-Jewish Pole."
Timothy Snyder in 500 pages describes so many stories of mass murder that the descriptions sometimes are very succinct. Longer works have been written, and movies made about events that take only a few sentences in Bloodlands - like the story of the Bielski partisans.

If you quickly divide people into good and bad, this book may slow you down a bit. For example, it explains that in the areas of the current Belarus, if you wanted to live, you often had to join Soviet partisans or German police, and you often did not have much choice about who to join - it could be a matter of which forces "visited" your village first. The extreme form of "collaboration" or negative opportunism, was the Judenrat and the Jewish police in the ghettos. Before you accuse somebody of "collaborating" with the enemy, think what you would do in the circumstances. But to do that, you need to know about the circumstances, and that's where Timothy Snyder helps.

14,000,000 x 1 is a well researched, but conservative number. Active soldiers, and others whose death cannot be attributed directly to a deliberate act of murder by Hitler's or Stalin's policies are not counted:
"I therefore generally exclude from the count the people who died of exertion or disease or malnutrition in concentration camps or during deportations, evacuations, or flight from armies. I also exclude people who died as forced laborers. I am not counting people who died of hunger as a result of wartime shortfalls, or civilians who died in bombings or as a result of other acts of war."
They are excluded from the main count, but their stories and numbers of victims, although not the main theme of Bloodlands, are noted. The count, in approximate chronological order, is as follows:
"[...] 3.3 million Soviet citizens (mostly Ukrainians) deliberately starved by their own government in Soviet Ukraine in 1932-1933; three hundred thousand Soviet Citizens (mostly Poles and Ukrainians) shot by their own government in the western USSR among the roughly seven hundred thousand victims of the Great Terror of 1937-1938; two hundred thousand Polish citizens (mostly Poles) shot by German and Soviet forces in occupied Poland in 1939-1941; 4.2 million Soviet citizens (largely Russians, Belarussians, and Ukrainians) starved by German occupiers in 1941-1944; 5.4 million Jews (most of them Polish or Soviet citizens) gassed or shot by the Germans in 1941-1944; and seven hundred thousand civilians (mostly Belarussians and Poles) shot by the Germans in "reprisals" chiefly in Belarus and Warsaw in 1941-1944."
Bloodlands describes reality that is complicated and soul crushing. Reality of state lies, betrayal, fear, and torture. Reality created by two strongly minded people who had millions of followers, who believed that they were doing good, that they had noble goals, and that means justify the ends.
"To dismiss the Nazis or the Soviets as beyond human concern or historical understanding is to fall into their moral trap. The safer route is to realize that their motives for mass killing, however revolting to us, made sense to them."
Enough Germans liked Hitler and the Nazi party to vote them into a political stronghold from which they could not be removed peacefully. Hitler wanted to unite and protect all Germans, so they could never again be humiliated by the French, or overran by the Slavs. He wanted Germany to be ethnically pure, economically strong, providing decent living conditions and stable employment to all workers. He wanted to expand the living space for the quickly growing "noble" race of Aryans. He hated Jews, because he thought they were immoral, used manipulative rhetoric tactics, and were loyal to other Jews rather than to the state. A large part of the society didn't mind... Would you?

Communists had initially the support of millions of Russian peasants and workers, who benefited from the overthrow of the capitalist regime by seizing private and church land, and by getting shorter working hours and higher wages. Stalin, at least publicly, followed Lenin's goal of building a paradise on earth, where everybody would give to the society as much as they could, and everybody would get from the society as much as they needed. All income from land distributed for public purposes, progressive taxes, no inheritance, free education for children, equality... Isn't that nice?

Is this book relevant today?

I think it is. Definitely not to scratch old wounds, maybe even not to correct our national memories. The message for all of us, but particularly Jews, Poles, Germans, Russians, Ukrainians, Lithuanians, Belarussians, and any other group touched personally by the story of Bloodlands, is that we should be vigilant, so such atrocities do NOT happen again, anywhere, to any group. We should never again ignore, or worse, follow people who think that their group is better than another, or who incite hate against another group, or torture and kill people, or start wars under false pretences

If you think that these things could not occur today, then how do you explain that, less than 10 years ago, we let one strongly minded leader start an unprovoked war which resulted in at least 109,032 deaths? Because the goal was noble?

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Made in America by Bill Bryson

Made in America was published in 1994. In principle, it is a book about English words that originated in the area that is now the United States of America. However, it is much more than that. It is a book about people, places, customs, and languages. The history of words is often a pretext for Bill to tell an interesting story about a person, an invention, about immigration, film making, aviation, advertising, sex, or car manufacturing.

Here is a sample of Bill Bryson's style from chapter 15, The Movies:
"It is a curious fact that this most American of phenomena was created almost entirely by non-Americans. Apart from Mack Senett and Mary Pickford (who were in any case both Canadian), the early studios were run by a small band of men who had begun life from strikingly similar backgrounds: they were all eastern European Jews, poor and uneducated, who had left Europe in the same decade (the 1880s), and had established themselves in the New World in the mostly lowly trades before they all abruptly - and instinctively, it seems - abandoned their careers in the first decade of this century and became seized with the opportunities to be found in the nickelodeon business." 
This introduction is followed by detailed stories of many men, among them Samuel Goldwyn, whose name makes the middle part of Metro Goldwyn Mayer, and who was born Schmuel Gelbfisz in Warsaw. Goldwyn's memorable contributions to the English language include 'Gentlemen, include me out', and 'You've bitten the hand of the goose that laid the golden egg'. :-)