Monday, August 17, 2026

Europe Trip 2026 - Seoul

My first flight was from Brisbane to Seoul, Korea. I wanted to visit South Korea in early 2020, but I didn't, because of COVID-19 restrictions. Since then, because of the worsening, human driven climate change, I decided to stop flying purely for sightseeing purposes. Hence, my first visit to South Korea was part of the trip from Australia to Europe to take care of some unfinished family business. I stayed for 3 nights in Incheon, which is a part of a 26 million people strong Seoul metropolitan area, which is almost the same in area (12.7k km2 vs 13.5k km2) as the Greater Tokyo area of 38 million people. For comparison, Warsaw metropolitan area is half the size (6.1k km2) and about an eight or twelve of the population (3.3m).

Korea sits between China and Japan, and these two countries had and have a huge impact on it. A bit similar to Poland being between Russia and Germany.

First impressions:

At the Incheon airport, it was a very long walk to my bus bay. Good transport hubs make the distance to walk, in this case from the gate to the bus stop, short. In my experience the positive examples are: Tokyo's Narita, Amsterdam's Schiphol, Helsinki... Negative examples: Incheon, Istanbul... After a longish wait, the bus driver did not allow me to board with 2 small suitcases. He said the limit was one and that I should use a taxi. Well, in that case, despite being tired after a long flight, and the late hour, I had to get a local sim card to get an Uber. The bus was empty, by the way. 

The Uber drivers (who are native Koreans, not foreigners like in Warsaw) are speeding, going even 92 km/h in a 60 zone.

The 7-Eleven shop assistant had zero English. The "Nice to CU" shop - the same. The sushi shop at the Seoul KTX station - the same. The English language museum guide was very hard to understand, despite living in the US for years. English proficiency among service workers seems to be worse than in Tokyo.

Potato chips are sweet, not salty.

No bins in the streets - same as in Japan.

People dump rubbish in empty lots - not like Japan.

New buildings have gas furnaces and exhaust pipes sticking out from walls.

There are escape hatches and ladders on balconies.

Bike infra is good.

New residential developments are very people friendly: walkable, quiet, with children playgrounds, trees, shops, restaurants, parks, events. I saw a lot of kids and bikes.

Footpaths are not as perfect as in Japan - you can trip and fall.

New streets are very wide: 2*4 car lanes, but there are concrete curb/nature strip separated bike paths on both sides and wide footpaths. Beg buttons seem to work well - short waits.

There are trees on both sides and shade umbrellas near crossings: 30 seconds of green to cross.

People cross on red when there are no cars.

Everyone walks on the bike crossing, because the curbs elsewhere are very high - higher than a staircase step.

Old people, women, kids ride bikes, on footpaths.

Toilet seat had a heater, Japanese style.

Mobile internet is super fast.

State museums are free.

Apartment building lifts are slow.

There is no ground floor - it's floor 1.

The Dokdo/Takeshima dispute film is shown on the airport train.

The airport train is crowded.

The kingdom ended and the empire started in 1897, one of the reasons being that most of the population gradually became slaves (native, not brought from abroad). Old laws and societal divisions were abolished. The old laws had collective punishment for members of the family. Constitution was introduced. The Joseon dynasty lasting 500 years ended. The dynasty before that (Goryeo) gave Korea its current name (G is pronounced K). There was another dynasty before that, so 3 dynasties.

The museum guide said a strange thing: people were becoming slaves because then they didn't have to pay taxes, life was easier as a slave?

No low floor buses. No trams.

Buses have the system: one door for entry, one for exit. Practically no electric buses.
It takes 1 hour 45 minutes to get to my hotel from the city centre. I think public transport in Tokyo, where it relies more on trains and metro, and less on buses, is faster.

No churches, except Presbyterian. I'm sure they are there, it's just that I did not see them. This is very different from Europe where churches are very prominent. Korea has its native religion, similar to Japan, similar to what Slavs and other peoples had in Europe before the arrival of Christianity, and what since then been called Pagan.

Playgrounds around residential towers even in city centre. Reminds me of Singapore. Who copied who?

The Seoul city history museum guide said Japan invaded Korea 999 times. Sarcasm?

Korean kids and teenagers behave rather badly in public, very different from Japan.

A/C is way too cold on the airport train.

A bus driver started closing the door before I exited.

Japanese occupation of Korea was similar to partitions of Poland, and also to General Government, something in between.

The reforms and the switch from the Joseon Kingdom to the Korean Empire in 1897 were similar to the 1791 Constitution of 3rd May in Poland-Lithuania - a late attempt to reform a state. In both cases it was too late, because of powerful neighbours. The Commonwealth was finally partitioned, under Russian leadership in 1795, Korea was annexed by Japan in 1910, after Japan won the 1905 Russo-Japanese war. Interesting how things are connected.

Seoul was damaged mainly in 1950-1953 when the bridges were blown up, North Koreans took it (in 3 days), and Americans bombed it.

The Internet works on the train even underground.

There are phrases in English in shops and restaurants, but people still don't speak English at all, or very poorly.

Loud motorbikes at night - I could hear the noise from the 22nd floor apartment.

Used KakaoMap app instead of Google maps. Very good reminders about when to alight, but uses a lot of  energy.

Disappointed with Korean food - no vegetarian options. Everything at 7-Eleven was with meat, unlike 7-Eleven in Japan, but similar to Żabka in Poland. Same with restaurants. Even the tofu meal had fish. Survived on ice cream, hard boiled eggs (and brown/sauna eggs) and pizza. Much worse choice than in Japan.

Incheon at night

Gas exhausts in new buildings 

Rubbish in an empty lot

Fire escape

Walkable and bikeable spaces

The curb height is ridiculous

I wanted to ride this bike, but I could not - see below.


Why make a city bike riding app and not allow international visitors to use it?


Nice smooth bike path along a footpath

So many ads, but also great for livability.

Traditional architecture

Seoul got rid of its tram network in 1968 like Tokyo, Brisbane and many other cities.



Korea demolished the symbol of Japanese occupation - see below for remains



The post-war growth of Seoul is incredible

I liked these characters. Was this a Korean animation?

A presbyterian church

King Sejong

The external/main/south gate of the Royal Palace

Guards and visitors in traditional dresses (you get free access to the palace if you come dressed like that).

The internal gate - to get past you need a ticket or you need to be dressed up


Change of colours: red for kingdom, yellow/gold for empire

The modern and traditional Korea in one photo










The battle for Seoul

There is a similar photo from the 1970s in Poland

First time I saw something like this: one guy trimming grass, two people holding a protective sheet, plus one person supervising. 

National Museum of Korea 

Korean KTX high speed train based on French TGV

No level boarding here

Bike paths along the river





Sunday, August 16, 2026

Jewish History - Jewish Religion by Israel Shahak

Subtitle: The Weight of Three Thousand Years. First published in 1994.


Israel Shahak was born in Warsaw, like me, only some 40 years earlier. He survived the Holocaust, was liberated from the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp by the British, and with his mother emigrated to Palestine. He went to a religious school in Israel, served in the IDF, studied and taught chemistry, got a doctorate at Hebrew University, studied at Stanford, became a human rights defender and author. 

This an important book about the history and the present of Judaism. This book is also useful in understanding the history of Israel and Zionism. Even though it was written over 30 years ago, it still helps us understand what is going on in Israel and in occupied-Palestine today, and even the most recent actions and policies regarding Israel in countries like the US, the UK, and Australia. 

This book is primarily addressed to Jews in Israel and in diaspora. It's a call for action:

"Therefore, the real test facing both Israeli and diaspora Jews is the test of their self-criticism which must include the critique of the Jewish past. The most important part of such a critique must be detailed and honest confrontation of the Jewish attitude to non-Jews. This is what many Jews justly demand from non-Jews: to confront their own past and so become aware of the discrimination and persecutions inflicted on the Jews. In the last 40 years the number of non-Jews killed by Jews is by far greater than the number of the Jews killed by non-Jews. The extent of the persecution and discrimination against non-Jews inflicted by the 'Jewish state' with the support of organised diaspora Jews is also enormously greater than the suffering inflicted on Jews by regimes hostile to them. Although the struggle against antisemitism (and of all other forms of racism) should never cease, the struggle against Jewish chauvinism and exclusivism, which must include a critique of classical Judaism is now of equal or greater importance."

This quote by Theodor Herzl - the father of Zionism, perplexed me - he wrote in 1896 in Der Judenstaat (The Jewish State) on why Jews must have their own state:

"The Jewish question exists wherever Jews live in perceptible numbers. Where it does not exist, it is carried by Jews in the course of their migrations. We naturally move to those places where we are not persecuted, and there our presence produces persecution."

Were Jews special in that regard? Were there groups/cultures similarly finding it hard to live among others? I know of anti-Chinese legislation and riots in the US, Australia and Asia, and I know of anti-Romani attitudes, and their genocide during the Nazi Germany rule.

Regarding attitudes toward Jews, I assumed it was jealousy plus being different: primarily having a unique, non-proselytising, religion, but after reading this book I would probably add that being brought up to follow the Jewish law (Halakha) through religious instruction or through culture, could have caused resentment in every society, where Jews lived in significant numbers. Note: Reform Judaism does not treat Halakha as binding, but it is a relatively new denomination and a niche one in Israel. Some examples of Halakha from the book:

"A Jew who murders a Gentile is guilty only of a sin against the laws of Heaven, not punishable by a court.' To cause indirectly the death of a Gentile is no sin at all."

"In wartime I am not merely permitted, but enjoined [instructed] to kill every Arab man and woman whom I chance upon, if there is reason to fear that they help in the war against us, directly or indirectly."

"As for Gentiles with whom we are not at war ... their death must not be caused, but it is forbidden to save them if they are at the point of death;"

"Jews must not (if they can help it) allow a Gentile to be appointed to any position of authority, however small, over Jews."

"Gentiles are presumed to be congenital [born] liars and are disqualified from testifying in a rabbinical court."

"Jews are instructed to burn, publicly if possible any copy of the New Testament that comes into their hands."

"[...] it became customary to spit (usually three times) upon seeing a church or a crucifix, [...]"

"[..] all Gentile women are presumed to be prostitutes."

The last quote above comes from this section:


This sentiment is expressed in the Yiddish word shiksa, which I heard my grandma use sometime in the 1970s, in a modified meaning of an unclean, childish young girl or woman, and which in Hebrew is even worse:


All of the Halakha rules come with an overriding exception: "unless doing so, might cause harm to you or to Jews in general", which in the times of kings meant making exceptions for and maintaining very good relations with the rulers and other people in positions of power. Today, it means politicians, judges, business leaders, and journalists.

This book also touches on the subject of misinformation, which may lead to hatred and wars. For example, here are the author's thoughts on the Khmelnytsky uprising:


Peasant uprisings were happening in Poland and elsewhere many times over the centuries. I remember how surprised I was when I learned that the last one happened in Poland only in 1937 - 44 peasants were killed. I was not taught about that at school.

I saw the distortion of history, ignorance, and irrational reaction to current events many times. From posters on social media talking about "Polish death camps" or "Nazi Poland", to tweets by recent Israeli and American ambassadors.

Yad Vashem director Avner Shalev called the stealing of the "Arbeit Macht Frei" sign in the Auschwitz museum in 2009 (stolen by local criminals for a Swedish neo-nazi as it later turned out) a true declaration of war (by Poland against Israel?).

Jewish associations were fighting against the presence of Catholic nuns and crosses on the site where Polish political prisoners of Auschwitz were executed by Germans.

Famous figures, like Steven Spielberg were casually spreading misinformation that Poland prohibited talking about the Holocaust, when in fact the proposed law was intended to penalise the intentional false blaming of the Holocaust on Poles, which was an opinion carried by about half of the population in Israel and Germany in 2024.

Israeli and Australian newspapers were distorting the truth and accusing others of doing it, for example, an article was published in The Australian in August 2024 implying that Poland was in some way responsible for the death camps, and at the same time arguing that the camp museums having an .org or .eu domains, not .pl, or people using the historically accurate names such as Litzmannstadt Ghetto are part of a Holocaust distortion worse than Holocaust denial:




Anyway, Shahak's book is worth reading. If your local library doesn't have it, you can probably find it on the Internet in a PDF format. 

...

My thinking brain wishes long and healthy lives to all(*) people, regardless of their faith, ethnicity, language, skin colour, gender, sexual orientation, etc. * - Yes, even the bad people - that's what my Catholic upbringing nags me about - "love your enemy". I just want the bad people separated from the society, so they cannot harm others and hopefully have time to reflect and change.

We live in terrible times again. We should protect nature, try to lessen the impacts of the existential catastrophe caused by burning of fossil fuels, help the most vulnerable among us, and enjoy life, not hate and kill each other.

Shalom.

Friday, July 10, 2026

Europe Trip 2026

I didn't plan to be back in Europe so fast, but we have an unfinished business in Poland, so here I am.

Since I have a lot of free time currently, I wanted to see as much as I could on the way. That's why it took me two weeks to get here from Australia, instead of two days. If there was an electric train/plane/ferry I would take it, but alas, not yet. I went by an electric train from Gold Coast to Brisbane, then by plane to Seoul, Korea. Then by two planes to Istanbul, and from there, mostly by electric trains to Warsaw. The only non-electrified part was from the Bulgarian border town of Ruse to Bucharest in Romania. 

Departing Brisbane

Arriving in Warsaw

About electric planes: their range is limited currently, but in perhaps 10-20 years they will catch up with petrol planes. The lithium-air battery has a theoretical energy density of 12000 Wh/kg, close to petrol's 13000 Wh/kg. 

Using the current battery tech, Elysian Aircraft is working on a commercial electric airplane: E9X aims to carry 90 passengers up to 800 km:


Here's an informative presentation by co-founder and co-CEO of Elysian Aircraft, Daniel Rosen Jacobson:


Even more details in this interview:


 



Tuesday, June 30, 2026

Europe Trip 2025 - Ljubljana - History

These photos are from the National Museum of Contemporary History in Ljubljana.


Pre-WW1

Slovenia was in the Austrian part (yellow), and Croatia mostly in the Hungarian part (gray), but also in the Austrian part (Dalmatia) of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. A few other parts of the future Yugoslavia (Bosnia, Herzegovina) were administered jointly (red):


The Austro-Hungarian Empire: the first "European Union" - not voluntary, but people liked Franz Josef. Two of my grandparents were born in Austria-Hungary during his reign, specifically in Galicia.

WW1

A Yugoslav nationalist Gavrilo Princip killed Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie, which triggered the Great War, as WW1 was called until WW2.

Happy faces mean that these soldiers have not seen war yet.






This is what war is: destruction and suffering. This photo was coloured by AI.

The original.

It's often children who suffer the most. In the beginning of the XX century, in poor regions in Europe, shoes were a luxury, and children often walked barefoot, even in winter.


A scene from Galicia. Soldiers of the 17th Infantry Regiment resting before the battle of Majdan Gologorski, August 26th, 1914.


A mass of dead soldiers on the eastern front.

Demolished fortress XI, Dunkowiczki in Przemyśl (today Poland), 1915.











Kingdom of Yugoslavia

Many nations gained independence after WW1. Smaller ones joined up and created Yugoslavia and Czechoslovakia.

Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Note: Slovenia had no access to the Adriatic sea.


Map of the international telephone connections of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1933

Travel destinations - in the upper right corner: Warszawa. Notice that Koper is not marked - Trieste was the go to place.



Snow in Ljubljana

Romanian born queen Maria with her children.

The first official visit of Crown Prince and Regent Alexander Karađorđević to Ljubljana occurred on June 26, 1920.

The king becomes a dictator in 1929.

Like many Europeans, Slovenians were also emigrating to America, although it became difficult in the 1930s.

Croatian and Macedonian extremists assassinated king Aleksander in 1934.

Slovenian actress





WW2


WW2 started in Yugoslavia in April 1941.

Yugoslav partisan.

Styrian (Austria) uniform.



The new Europe with Germany where Poland used to be and Croatia where Slovenia used to be.




In 1943-44 when Ljubljana was under German control a German-allied Slovene Home Guard was created by Leon Rupnik and others. 






Communist Yugoslavia


Tito - the man who created communist Yugoslavia.






Arrival of the returned Slovene Home Guards in Kranj, 30 May 1945.

Many of them will be killed by Tito.

























People tried to escape the worker's paradise, in this case communist Czechoslovakia.





Students critisizing market reforms? Yugoslavia was not like Poland.










Building a motorway







Building a nuclear power plant



The same thing was going on in other communist countries that allowed citizens to travel abroad, for example Poland.



Tito died in Ljubljana in 1980.


Independent Slovenia







Tito street renamed to Danube street. The same thing was happening in other communist states: renaming of streets, squares, schools, even cities.



Like in other communist countries, many state enterprises went bust when communism ended. This one, Gradis, built, among other things, the 39-stories Intraco I skyscraper in Warsaw, which I passed everyday on the way to school.