First impressions after crossing the Danube (coming from Bulgaria)
Romania (pop. 19m) is flat from this direction. And it's unnaturally empty. This could have been Ceausescu's doing: erasing small villages.
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First impressions of Bucharest (pop. 1.8m)
Busy. Full of life and people. The bus stop right at the station. Grand architecture and communist blocks that have not been renovated for decades. Beggars in front of some churches, at traffic lights. Homeless people. Lots of trees. City centre lively on a weekend.
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Ruins and rubbish
Far fewer ruins and far less rubbish than in Bulgaria, but some places are shocking - see the hotel below. The demographic decline in Romania was not as bad as in Bulgaria, but still huge - at least 17%.
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| Hotel Dunărea opposite the north train station. Damaged in the 1977 earthquake and not restored. |
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| Rubbish near the train line. |
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New developments
A lot more activity than in Bulgaria.
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Trains and stations
Generally in a much better condition than in Bulgaria, even though the stock seems older. Big variety of models, many companies.
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| The side entrance to the north train station - Gara De Nord |
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| Even though the tower is old and a tree grows on top, the exterior wall looks maintained. |
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Bucharest is green
And it's not just the communist era urban planning green, but also modern, let's plant trees in the old town, let's put benches and various plants, including flowers, on street corners, let's make make places beautiful green.
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| A walk from my apartment to the bus stop. |
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| Red roses |
On Sunday the streets in the centre are open to people, but not on bikes - the police are telling riders off and send them to side streets.
National Museum of Romanian History
Mainly prehistory and Roman times? What about the communist era, pre-WW2, Ottoman Empire...? There must be another museum...
Greeks and Armenians were tax collectors for the Ottoman Empire.
From the guide: Romanian gold was sent in 1916-17 to Russia for safekeeping. It was confiscated by Bolsheviks. Never returned.
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| A replica of the Trajan's Column |
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| Almost a bicycle. |
The architecture left by Ceausescu in Bucharest: the grandiosity, the thickness of walls, reminded me of the Capitol in Hunger Games.
According to the guide: that area of Bucharest was chosen because it was most stable seismically.
After a visit to North Korea in 1971 Ceausescu evicted 40 thousand people and demolished the old part of Bucharest to build a palace inspired by the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun.
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| Centrul Civic |
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| People's House |
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| Apartments in these buildings were given to Securitate and other high level officials in Ceausescu's Romania. |
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| The small balcony over the entrance was the site of his last speech. The square in front was the turning point of the 1989 revolution. Romanians talk about history "during Ceausescu's rule" and "after Ceausescu". |
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| Even when they are not there at the moment - weekend... |
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| Romanian Athenaeum |
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| Central University Library |
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| This tower stood between blocks of flats. |
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| Cantacuzino Palace |
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| Victory Avenue |
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| CEC Palace |
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| Macca-Vilacrosse Passage |
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| The last street cat on this trip. |
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| How did this monstrosity get an approval? |
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| Statue of Iuliu Maniu |
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| The bust of Atatürk |
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| There's a metal shed on top! |
Street art, graffiti and scribblings on the walls
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| Vlad de Impaler and Carol I on a mural. |
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On the way to the border with Hungary
On a Romanian night train to Vienna. There are electrical sockets in the compartment. The couchette compartment was full. A French couple returning from holidays in Türkiye and I assume a Romanian woman - she did not speak a word to us.
The conductor took my paper ticket and returned it at the end of the trip instead of just scanning the QR code like for passengers who showed him the same kind of ticket on their phones. The ticket had my name, date of birth. Weird.
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| These buildings have a shape of mountain lodges, but are oversized. |
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| Hey, solar panels! |


















































































































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